Near the Sakai Plaza of Rikyū and Akiko you will find a confectionary store that sells “Keshi-mochi.” Let’s take a breather here and have a bite of something sweet. “Keshi-mochi” uses “keshi,” or poppy seeds, and these were first brought to Japan on Nanban ships. It’s said Sen-no-Rikyū loved keshi-mochi, which led to its popularity in the tea ceremony.

By the way, poppy seeds contain a small amount of opium and were imported in Nanban ships as ingredients for morphine and other sedatives. It’s only a trace amount, so they’re perfectly safe to eat, of course. Their crunchy texture combined with the softness of the mochi makes for a truly delectable treat.

But why were poppy seeds in demand? The reason is deeply rooted in the Warring States Period. Poppy was used as a sedative for treating wounded soldiers and to relax combat-high warriors who had spent the day killing people. As a matter of fact, the caffeine found in tea was indispensable when storming castles. It was a convenient stimulant during nocturnal assaults and was also useful in heightening morale.

But it became a luxury item after the wars abated, and it’s still enjoyed to this day. Gunpowder used in firearms was repurposed for fireworks, and poisonous chemicals became pesticides and other agrochemicals. New industries were born from the fires of war. Swordsmiths in Sakai turned to knifemaking to support Osakan gastronomy. This marked the end of Sakai’s “golden days,” but that is a story for another time.