The Nichirin-ji Kojindo Temple, built between Kuki-toge Pass and Miki-toge Pass, was founded over 1,300 years ago by Ajari, a follower of the Shugen religion. Kakushin, a follower of Shugen, rebuilt the temple after it had been in disrepair for many years. Kakushin defeated bandits who had taken up residence on Yakiyama, thereby making the area safer. It is said that when he chanted a spell for thirsty pilgrims, cold fresh water called “Shinmeisui” gushed out near Kojindo.

Nearby, there is the grave of a mountain ascetic follower of Kakushin. This location is also a famous location in Kabuki and Joruri plays where a mother and child are attacked by bandits. Beside the Kojindo Temple, there was a teahouse that sold food, local sake, rice cakes, straw sandals, tobacco, and steamed buns, which were a specialty. The buns and rice cakes must have been a great treat for the weary body.

The summit is located around Miki-toge Peak, the second peak of Yakiyama-goe. The signpost is 40/63, which means we have climbed about 4 kilometers. From here on, it is all downhill. There was also a teahouse at Miki-toge Pass. Because of the long distance over Yakiyama, there were many teahouses, including Sakura Teahouse, Kojindo Teahouse, Miki-toge Pass Teahouse, and Jugoro Teahouse. Travelers must have felt relieved when they saw them.

Bokushi Suzuki, a travel writer of the Edo period, walked this road with a group of eight people. At Miki-toge Pass, he wrote a poem marveling at the strength of the local women who carried heavy loads on their heads, called “Itadaki,” which even men couldn’t handle. Until recently, this region was home to the last Itadaki custom in the country.

In the old days, one could see the ocean from the teahouse. Suzuki wrote this haiku: “Spring is cold, and the sea, endless.” Pilgrims were also attacked by the wolves that appeared frequently in the area, and there are records of the Kukiura village chief calling for riflemen from Owase to exterminate the wolves. After this, the trail splits into two. While the Edo road is still accessible, the Meiji road is now impassable because the bridge over the valley has fallen down. With that said, let’s head down the old Edo road to the Jugoro teahouse by passing through the Sakura-no-Mori Hiroba.