We have a special guide for all Nishitetsu passengers bound for Yanagawa: a story for you to enjoy en route. We invite you to use this ride to Yanagawa Station to learn more about your destination.

Are you aware of the relationship between the Nishitetsu train and Yanagawa? The railway line you currently traverse is the Nishitetsu-Tenjin-Ōmuta Line, and it was established around 100 years ago. At first it only ran from Tenjin to Kurume. However, they set out to extend it through Ōmuta, all the way to its final stop at Kumamoto. Linking Tenjin and Ōmuta by train was a desirable development for railway companies given the latter’s bustling coal industry. The Nishitetsu was then merged with a private railway running southward through Yanagawa and Chikugo. The extension to Yanagawa Station opened in 1937, when people still lived in the old castle town. Because of that, the line could not run down the middle of town, which led to the construction of the current Yanagawa Station, a little way out from the town center. In those days, there was a train called the “Mo-21” that used to run to Yanagawa. It was an adorably rounded set of cars, fragrant with the fresh wood from which it was built. It was light and speedy, too — capable of speeds up to 90 km per hour, the Mo-21 also served as a limited express train.

However, back then Yanagawa was not the travel hot spot it is today. Its transformation would begin thanks to the 1954 film Karatachi no hana. It told the story of Yanagawa poet Kitahara Hakushū’s youth, and to do so it recreated a scene of people playing in the Yanagawa River, like they did in the old days.

Audiences immediately raved about this scene, as it made them want to play in the river, too. The Yanagawa River Cruise’s own story began at that moment, as a Nishitetsu investor formed the first river cruise tour company. The Nishitetsu’s many customers, having seen the famous river scene, would then want to visit Yanagawa as well.

We invite you to enjoy the scenery from your windows, just like they did in the old days. These are the same views you’re used to, but we invite you to look outside your window once we’re past Hanabatake Station. The countryside will stretch on and on, and once we pass Daizenji Station, you will notice a large channel. When you do, please confirm your location on the map screen on this app. You will see on your map that there are canals everywhere in this area. A veritable “suigō,” a “city of water.” Fun fact: Yanagawa is known in Japanese not as a “suigō” but as a “suikyō,” supposedly due to Kitahara Hakushū’s aversion to softened consonants when depicting the beauty of his hometown.

This aquatic metropolis will only grow the closer we get to Yanagawa, as the water channels run alongside and cross with the railway line. We encourage you to view this harmonious intersection of land and water for yourself. Once past the regular-train-only Kamachi Station, the railway narrows to a single track. Some of you may notice Showa Period wooden electric poles as we approach Yanagawa Station. It’s as if you are on a journey through an aquatic city now lost to time.

We cannot mention the Nishitetsu-Tenjin-Ōmuta Line without thinking about their ice-green trains. The reason for their peculiar hue? These trains run for long hours, so their color was selected to pleasantly match the sky and countryside scenery.

And now, once we pass Yanagawa Station, we will arrive at Ōmuta Station. The “muta” portion of its name means “wetlands”; the Yanagawa region is itself a wetland facing the Ariake Sea. This marshy environment experiences the biggest tidal variance in the nation, which necessitated the construction of canals and waterways. We invite you to listen to the story of these canals in the next guide, “Before Boarding the River Cruise.” It might be tough to grasp the scale of the water city of Yanagawa while on foot; understand that it is not limited to the area around the station. Waterways in Yanagawa are called “horiwari” in Japanese. People walking through the castle town cannot grasp the shape of these canals, but Yanagawa-bound Nishitetsu customers like you get to exclusively enjoy their full scope throughout your ride!

Then, when you arrive at Yanagawa Station, please take some time to experience the canal districts in full. You will find them in many more places besides your arrival point; storied districts such as Kyōmachi and Asahimachi also hide water canals behind their storefronts. The waterways were actually dangerously close to destruction in the 1970s, but the locals worked tooth and nail to pull off a miraculous restoration. You can learn more about the restoration by watching The Story of Yanagawa’s Canals, a documentary film directed by none other than Studio Ghibli’s dream team: directors Isao Takahata and Hayao Miyazaki.

Now, while we do recommend all Yanagawa newcomers to experience the River Cruise, there are many more sights waiting to be discovered. We’ll give you three keywords to start you on your trip.

The first is “Ohana.” Long ago it was a ryokan inn managed by the descendants of the Tachibana, the ruling clan of Yanagawa Castle. Ohana’s history begins in the Edo Period, with the fifth Tachibana lord, Sadayoshi, constructing his family home near the castle. Since then, it has bloomed with seasonal flowers, earning it the name “Ohana-batake,” or “flower garden,” from the locals. This explains the keyword “Ohana.” The main hall contains luxurious “kiso hinoki” cypress features, and lifting the tatami mat flooring reveals a Noh theater stage.

You can see Ohana’s garden, Shōtō-en, from the main hall. A nationally recognized scenic spot, it was created by Tomoharu, the 14th Tachibana lord, who supposedly modeled it after the scenery of Matsushima in Sendai.

It features around 280 pine trees, most of which are around 200 years old, and a pond filled with canal water. It also contains around 1,500 garden stones, 14 stone lanterns, and a megalith in front of the main hall made from Yanagawa Castle stone. Ohana is the goal for many River Cruise goers, but we certainly hope you will enjoy stepping off the boat and into Ohana’s main hall and garden.

To understand Yanagawa, it is crucial to also learn the history of the Tachibana Clan. Reportedly originating from Shogun Minamoto-no-Yoritomo’s progeny, the Tachibana Clan served as mediators for Kyūshū during the Kamakura Period, and their base of operations was in Ōita. After enduring the vicissitudes of the Muromachi and Sengoku periods, the samurai Bekki Akitsura inherited the Tachibana mantle, and took on the name of Tachibana Dōsetsu. It’s said that this is where the Tachibana Clan formally began.

The second Tachibana lord, Muneshige, married the lady Ginchiyo, who herself became a renowned female military commander. In the wars that followed, 19-year-old Muneshige gained recognition from Shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and was granted lordship of Yanagawa Castle, the seat of Chikugo Province. However, his sense of duty compelled him to side with Toyotomi’s faction at the Battle of Sekigahara after the shogun’s death, and upon being defeated, was forced to surrender Yanagawa Castle. At this time, Yanagawa Castle was conquered by Tanaka Yoshimasa, the lord of Okazaki Castle.

However, he was unable to grant lordship to his heir, Tadamasa. Thus, the ousted Muneshige — now 53 — returned to his seat at Yanagawa Castle. Cases of ousted rulers returning to power are apparently exceedingly rare in Sengoku Period history. The Tachibana Clan then went on to rule for 400 years. We recommend the historically inclined among you to visit the Tachibana Museum within the Ohana grounds.

Your next keywords are “Kitahara Hakushū.” Born in the Okinohata area next to Ohana, the luminary poet moved to Tokyo, where published his first poetry collection, Jashūmon (“Heretics”), when he was 24 years old. Two years later, his star rose after publishing his follow-up, Omoide (“Memories”), to rave reviews.

With an oeuvre that covers “tanka” poetry, nursery rhymes, folk songs and more, Hakushū’s fame stretched across the whole country. In 1941, his penultimate year in life, he returned home to Yanagawa for the first time in decades. Riding the Nishitetsu to his hometown must have brought precious memories back to him; you can sense his love for Yanagawa in his work.

The Kitahara family was renowned for serving the Yanagawa province for generations; Kitahara Hakushū’s father was a sake brewer who also sold fish wholesale and ran a rice polishing company. However, when Hakushū turned 16, a fire broke out in Okinohata that burnt down almost the entire Kitahara home, except for the central building. The damage led to bankruptcy, forcing the Kitahara family to leave Yanagawa and make for Tokyo. The vacant Kitahara home exchanged owners many times afterwards, becoming a rice mill, cannery, and food processing plant in turn. Constant remodelings took their toll on the old house, until finally rumors spread that the house would be demolished.

The public hated the idea, as they believed it would be a waste to destroy a house that should be preserved instead. The city then immediately submitted an application to declare the house a prefectural cultural asset. The application was granted, legitimizing the Kitahara house’s historical value. A preservation committee was convened at the same time to raise funds towards restoration to the tune of 29,100,000 yen from all corners of Japan. Thanks to these resources, the Kitahara house was restored without issue

Nowadays, efforts continue not only to preserve the house, but also to collect and display Kitahara Hakushū’s literature and keepsakes. The “Kitahara Hakushū Birthplace and Memorial Hall” was also established, featuring Yanagawa and Okinohata historical exhibits as well. These projects were designed to capture the full scope of that world, centered around Kitahara Hakushū and his portrayal of humanity.

And now, your third keyword is “sagemon.” “Sagemon” roughly means “hanging thing,” and refers to handmade ornaments given to newborn girls to ensure they grow up healthy and happy. They are Yanagawa’s version of the doll-centered “Hinamatsuri” custom seen all over Japan. “Sagemon” as a tradition came about by hanging special ornaments alongside the traditional hina dolls on display near the river. Sagemon can be anything from talismans made from kimono scrap to vividly embroidered balls. The amount of sagemon is also quite specific: Seven rows of seven ornaments, totaling 49.

If we include the two embroidered balls at the center, the total becomes 51. Why 51? Because in the past, when the life expectancy was around 50 years, the additional ornament symbolized a wish that the person in question lives beyond 50, even if only for one more year. This prayer has existed since the end of the Edo Period and continues to this day. Every year during the Hinamatsuri season, the town bustles with people strolling and admiring the sagemon decorations in the residential neighborhoods. Even if you are not here during sagemon season, we recommend seeking out the sagemon tool shops, which have their own long histories.

To close things off, we want to introduce some of Yanagawa’s cuisine. Yanagawa eel is undeniably at the top of the list. Eel inhabit the estuary where the salt water of the Ariake Sea mixes with the freshwater of the Chikugo River since ancient times, and the fish has always been a firm, flavorful and fragrant delicacy. Eel became a Yanagawa specialty that is said to have bolstered the coffers of the entire province.

Preparing the eel in the “seiro-mushi,” manner, meaning “steamed in a bamboo container,” is quite peculiar as well. First, the rice is covered in sauce, then steamed. Then, freshly grilled eel dipped in soy sauce is added to the rice before steaming it a second time. Finally, the dish is garnished with thin omelette strips. Grilling and steaming — the Kanto and Kansai methods — together in one signature dish.

It is common knowledge that in the eastern Kanto region, the eel is sliced down its spine, while in the western Kansai region it is sliced down its belly. In Kanto, slicing the eel down the belly is taboo because it is associated with “seppuku,” the samurai’s ritual suicide by disembowelment; Kansai, on the other hand, apparently views facing the eel belly-up as a candid communication of the fish’s purpose. So, which way does Yanagawa cut its eels? The answer is down the spine, because they originally wanted to replicate the Kanto method. As Yanagawa was also a castle town, associations with seppuku were unavoidable and undesirable. There are many theories, but if we may make one suggestion, it is that you try Yanagawa’s take on eel cuisine.

Incidentally, it’s said that they also used to eat loach fish in Yanagawa; a loach dish called “Yanagawa hot pot” is rather famous in the low-lying regions of Tokyo, indicating the extent to which Yanagawa cuisine has reached across Japan.

Yanagawa is also famous for “Ariake nori seaweed.” The city is said to be the second largest nori producing region of Japan, testament to the Ariake Sea’s bounty. Alighting from the River Cruise at Ohana, then following the canal to Okinohata reveals castle town views that give way to a fishing village where the atmosphere is completely different to all you’ve seen so far.

The Ariake Sea’s treasures include much more than just nori, as it also provides rare fish that you can see at the aquarium —- and taste for yourself. We hope you’ll continue enjoying your journey beyond the River Cruise.

Now then, where might you be now on your train ride? While you anticipate the views beyond Hanabatake Station, we invite you to listen to our guide “Before Boarding the River Cruise.”