There is one discovery to be made before opening the door.

Let us take our time on this prologue before we set off.

Mountain, river and sea – these three bounties harmoniously resound across this land. The salty scent of the Seto Inland Sea, the clean wind blowing from Mt. Ishizuchi, the brooks streaming across the foothills…
They all come together in one plate, here at Kaishū.

Here you will experience more than a meal.

Your senses will journey first across the sea, then over the mountains, and along the rivers to their source.

The Seto Inland Sea is far from quiet. Fish are tempered firm by its wild currents. Sea bream raised within the whirlpools of Kurushimakaikyō in Imaji are rich in umami, leaving a powerful aftertaste.

Norimasa Sakamoto is the owner of Kaishū. Auberge Fujimoto owner and master angler Jun’ichi Fujimoto calls him Japan’s greatest fisherman. His signature move? Stunning the fish to fully preserve its flavor.

However, he does not do this immediately after catching the fish. First, the fish are soothed in a fish tank.
This is known in Japanese as “ikegoshi.”

Inside the tank, the fish will calm down over time.
Fujimoto has furnished his ship with a special tank repurposed from a scrapped vessel, which has “bedrooms” for different types of fish. For instance, he keeps conger eels in a tank containing a 1-meter long pipe.

The fish can relax in their tanks before preparation.

Before long, the fated hour arrives.

Fujimoto carefully lifts the fish without agitating it, and delivers a single blow to the head. This induces brain death, cutting off the signal that indicates “death” while minimizing the fish’s suffering as much as possible. This prevents coagulation in the blood, preventing the onset of decay. Although the brain is inactive, the heart continues beating for another ten minutes. In that time, Fujimoto drains most of the blood. He is careful not to drain too much, because blood is the source of the umami. This preserves the flavor while avoiding odor.

Sakamoto wastes no time preparing the fish as soon as it arrives.
Each bite delivers the briny scent of the Seto Inland Sea as the umami coats your tongue and lingers for a long while.

As if reflecting a snapshot of the ocean on that day on your tongue.

As we depart the ocean, we head towards the mountains. The mountains of Ehime cradle the sea’s moisture, delivering nutrients to the rivers, which will inevitably empty out at sea, refertilizing the ocean. A cycle that forms the source of this land’s bountiful ingredients.

One such ingredient is rice. Specifically, “Himeno-rin” rice, cultivated by Satoshi Nakano in Uwacho, Seiyo City. It was developed to grow deliciously even in the warmth of Ehime, and has won top honors in competitions.
Nakano maintains a practice of inviting kids to help plant the paddies to teach them about rice cultivation.
In the old days, there was no profession manlier than farming. Out on the field, Nakano proudly embodies this spirit.

Sakamoto also keeps his own rice paddy. When he sinks his feet into the earth and smells the young plants, his love for rice deepens. He expresses said love in his work at Kaishū.

Rice is served two ways at Kaishū. The first way is “niebana,” served at its most fragrant, the moment it is done simmering. That fragrance, much like the steam, will fade before you know it, so Sakamoto encourages customers to tuck in quickly.

The second is steamed to perfection, so as to bring out its latent sweetness.

After trying these two, close it off with “taimeshi” – minced sea bream rice. Topped with velvety egg yolk, the combination is shockingly decadent and unforgettable for foreign travelers.

And finally, let us head to the river. The narrow Omogo River flows from Mt. Ishizuchi, winding along craggy rock faces. The perfect environment for the perfect ayu sweetfish.

The river bottom is not sandy, leading the ayu to feed on the moss growing on the rocks; even their insides are clear.

Fast currents and nutritious moss – They make the ayu stronger swimmers and bigger eaters than those of other rivers. They grow large in a very short time. The big ayu are packed with fat and full of fragrance.
Sakamoto’s own father handles the fishing, and in each morsel you can taste the unique nature of this place.

The spring water that feeds this river from Yanadanimura in Kumakōgen sustains Kaishū’s flavors.
Famed as some of Japan’s softest water, Sakamoto spends up to two hours drawing it for the restaurant. Soft water gently brings out the umami in seafood and dashi, and enhances the flavor of sake and tea.
The river that feeds the ayu and the spring water that flows from its source harmoniously unite in every dish.

Every journey demands libations.

Sakamoto’s personal recommendation is the “Ishizuchi Ai” sake. This special brew isn’t sold to every store; only a select few shops in collaboration with the brewery may serve it.

Said brewery is located at the foot of Mt. Ishizuchi, the tallest peak in western Japan, in Saijō City, a place famous for its spring water. Their exceptionally soft water springs from the Ishizuchi mountain range, and grants a clear taste and velvety-soft mouthfeel.

Pair your dinner with hot sake. A drink with a texture like sipping dashi broth. Warmed to perfection so as to expand its aroma, its umami melds perfectly with your dish.

Raise the cup to your lips, and visions of the ocean, mountains and river will softly unravel upon your tongue.

Kaishū’s course meal begins with warm dishes rather than cold ones. This is to warm the body and relax the spirit at the start of your journey. Soup dishes are crafted with dashi from Seto Inland Sea fish, leaving light yet complex flavors, lingering long after you finish. That aftertaste will gently engrave memories of Ehime within you.

Ehime is a rather remote prefecture. But that makes it home to unique ingredients.
Kaishū’s cuisine is sustained by fishermen, farmers, brewers – by the people of this land.

Your actual journey begins at your table in Kaishū. Whether you trek across Ehime before or after your meal,
The scents of the harbor, the mountain ridges, and the babbling brooks – bounties that you can taste in perfect harmony – will surely form a thread on the tapestry that is your trip across Ehime.