As a residence, as well as the locus of government for the sovereigns of Nagoya Castle, the palace on the southern grounds of Ninomaru Garden was once home to generations of Owari feudal lords. Picture these lords as prefectural governors, and Ninomaru Garden as their home and prefectural office.
It was customary during the Edo Period for samurai to first pass through the tea room for a spot of matcha before holding audience with the feudal lord. This is similar to receiving tea in the reception parlor before being called in to see the prefectural governor. Tea parties would also be held for VIP guests. For these reasons, samurai had to educate themselves in and develop a taste for tea ceremony, and it was so important that specialists known as “o-sukiya” (or “o-sadō”) were employed to handle all things concerning tea within the castle.
Retainers to the Owari lords primarily enjoyed the “Uraku style” of tea ceremony, which was founded by Nobunaga Oda’s younger brother, Urakusai. Educated by Sen-no-Rikyu himself, he served Tokugawa lords Hideyoshi and Iemitsu after his older brother’s death. The Uraku style was devised to be performed while wearing a sword, making it more approachable for samurai seeking to maintain their image.
Naritaka Tokugawa, twelfth Lord of Nagoya Castle, was another famous tea aficionado. In truth, he wasn’t originally from Owari Province, but instead was brought into the shogunate fold from the outside. He also enjoyed the Urasenke style of tea ceremony instead of the Uraku. His idiosyncratic tastes probably caught the castle off guard much like jazz music would to an opera fan. Naritaka not only promoted the creation of tea utensils within the province, but also crafted pottery and went to so many tea parties that the shogunate themselves had to tell him to calm down. Museums have Naritaka to thank for the many tea utensils on display.
Symbolizing Nagoya’s affection for the art of tea is the “Ōgon-no-chagama,” or “Golden Teakettle,” on display at Ninomaru Garden. This kettle, as well as the flagpole adorning Nagoya’s municipal flag, is actually a replica made from remnants of the ornamental gold dolphin that sat atop the Nagoya Castle keep before it was destroyed in World War II. Indeed, the Owari region’s love for tea is as monumental and symbolic as these two relics. Tea is made and served from that very kettle every Friday, and we hope you can stop by for a taste.
