What is an ox doing here? Why is it crouching on the ground?
The reason is connected to our search for something special here at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.
Sugawara Michizane (845–903) was an important historical figure of Japan that any Japanese person will recognize. He was a scholar in Kyoto during the Heian period, and was recognized as an outstanding politician-- promoted to the second post in the Imperial Court, Minister of the Right. However, others grew jealous of Michizane and conspired against him, getting him demoted and sent to Dazaifu. Here is where he lived in poverty, growing so thin you could almost see right through him. Michizane died at the age of 59, just two years after arriving at Dazaifu.
Michizane left a will for his disciples. “For certain reasons, don’t return my ashes to Kyoto.” Unsure where to go, regardless they set his remains on an ox-pulled cart and started on their way. Suddenly, the ox stopped, crouched down and showed no intention of moving. The disciples took this as a sign, thinking “this must be the spot.” They buried the ashes of their master Michizane in that spot, which is now the main sanctuary of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.
In that sense, you are visiting the grave of Sugawara Michizane when you visit Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine. We can listen in on what his heart and soul were saying.
Why did Michizane want his remains buried in Dazaifu, rather than in Kyoto?
Some say it was because of his deep devotion to the Emperor. The Emperor was the one who sent Michizane away from Kyoto, so he was determined to follow the orders of the Emperor even past his death.
Others say the reason doesn’t even matter. Rather, this is a perfect example of Michizane’s character-- a kind, simple man who had his reasons but didn’t feel the need to explain himself.
So, what do you think when you hear the story of Shingyu the ox?
