Throughout its history, Yashima has alternated between “Sanctuary” and “Battleground.” Walking through the island with those perspectives, you will uncover a grand and winding history.


Let’s turn back the clock, and find the keyhole-shaped Nagasakinohana Barrow. Believed to be made for a governor who controlled maritime traffic along the Seto Inland Sea, it is said to be one reason why Yashima Island is treated as a sanctuary.


Afterward, the Battle of Baekgang occurred in Korea in the year 663. As a result, mountain castles were built and garrisoned all over Japan in an effort to protect the nation from the mainland. Yashima was one such site at that time, now known as the Yashima Castle Ruins. The castle needed to be built in order to prepare for war. One could say that in that era, Yashima Island felt very much like a battleground.


The monk Ganjin built Yashima Temple’s predecessor, the Sengen-do Temple, during the Nara period. It is believed that the monk Kukai moved the temple to its current site. Next to Yashima Temple is the “Chi-no-ike” or “Blood Pond.” It was called “Ruri-Tamaike” or “Lapis Lazuli Pond” long ago because, according to legend, a lapis lazuli stone was interred together with sacred scriptures within its depths. At this time, Yashima Island can be said to have turned into a sanctuary.


Here we loop back to the time of the Gempei War, that highlight of Yashima’s history recorded in the Heike Monogatari. When the Taira clan escaped into Yashima, the island once again became a battleground. You can find many historical ruins while walking through the “Old Battlefield,” but while the Gempei War became a representative event, it remains little more than one page of Yashima’s history.


Moving into the Edo period, the “Yashima Shrine” is built by the Matsudaira clan, lords of Takamatsu. Coincidentally, pilgrimages through the 88 temples of Shikoku became popular, and so Yashima Temple flourished greatly. At this time, the Matsudaira clan may have prepared the Gempei War historical site to attract visitors. In this way, Yashima became a sanctuary once again.


Following the end of the Edo period and the arrival of Commodore Matthew Perry, a battery fort was built at Yashima, to prepare for threats from foreign nations. You can see the ruins of that battery. Oddly enough, it was built right next to the Nagasakinohana Barrow we introduced earlier. Once more, Yashima had to prepare itself to become a battlefield.

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Yashima has been at the mercy of politicians throughout its history, changing from sanctuary to battlefield repeatedly. It’s perhaps because it is a powerful strategic point in the Seto Inland Sea as well as a nationally significant place that Yashima has fallen into such a cycle.

The island became a hotspot for newlyweds on their honeymoons. Then it suddenly became deserted after the bubble economy burst. Nevertheless, the “Yashima-ru” panorama exhibit was born in the Reiwa period from those ruins. Can Yashima Island possibly reclaim its prosperity as a sacred sightseeing spot?

On this Trip, we walked through the “Old Battlefield.” Thus, next time you visit Yashima, we encourage you to visit the Nagasakinohana Barrow, Yashima Castle Ruins, the Sengen-do Site, Yashima Shrine, and the Battery Fort Sites, and experience the dynamic history of Yashima Island for yourself. Then, come back to visit the “One Night’s Dream in Yashima '' panorama; what discoveries will you make? We encourage you to see for yourself.

ON THE TRIP Editorial Staff

Planning: Akihito Shiga
Photography: Hiroshi Honma
Translator: Jean Paul Souki

* This guide was created based on documents and interviews and includes some interpretation done by us at ON THE TRIP. Theories differ between experts, so try to find out what really happened on your travels!