The capital of Kyoto was at most about 70 kilometers or 44 miles away. Without trains or cars to rely on in the Edo Period, that meant the closest sea to Kyoto was right here at Wakasa Bay. That distance was the key; mackerel was unloaded early in the morning, lightly covered in salt, and rushed to the capital.

Why the salt? Because mackerel meat spoils easily. However, trimming and preparing it with salt helps preserve the freshness of the fish. And that’s not all; while the mackerel was transported on foot to Kyoto through the night, it fermented until it achieved the perfect flavor. Putting this in modern terms, the mackerel’s protein turned into amino acids while it rested through the night, increasing its umami flavor. Kyoto chefs would fall over themselves to get their hands on this “Salted Wakasa delicacy.” They would remove the salt, then pickle it in vinegar and kombu to make mackerel sushi. This is how they partook of fresh mackerel.

The Sabakaido, then, is the road that connects Wakasa and Kyoto through mackerel. Obama’s town market, crowded with fishmongers, must have been originally located here. Mackerel was surely carried over hill and dale from this market to Kyoto. This is one story from the Edo Period, but the origin of this foundational cornerstone of Japanese culinary culture lies much earlier in history. Let us wind the clock further back before the Nara Period, to an age called the “Miketsukuni.”