Thank you for joining the “Setouchi Hoshiyama Kankakei Spiritual Night Tour.” This guide will accompany you through a journey to a world full of mystery and wonder.
Before we board the bus, we have a story about Shodoshima.
Shodoshima is a small island in the Seto Inland Sea with a population of about 25,000. It’s the second-largest island in the Seto Inland Sea and is the most populated remote island in Japan that’s only accessible by boat.
Japanese mythology says that when the gods Izanagi and Izanami created Japan, Shodoshima was the tenth island they made. It’s here where our story takes place.
Emperor Ojin and his wife climbed the mountain and sat together looking out at the sunset descending over the Seto Inland Sea. As he admired the scenery he turned to face his empress, only to find a troubled expression on her face. She missed her parents and her hometown, which lay just where the sun was setting. Shortly after, Emperor Ojin arranged a boat to take her home, and he wrote a poem as he watched her fade into the distance:
“Two islands side by side, and they were good. Now one has left but they can still see each other.”
The two islands where Emperor Ojin lived and where his wife lived are not far apart, but once she left, the distance suddenly felt tangible. If only she had stayed, he wouldn’t have to feel this loss.
Emperor Ojin returned to the capital after her departure, but just as quickly decided to leave again to visit her, after just six months apart. He stopped at Shodoshima along the way. You could say Shodoshima was the stepping stone for the emperor.
They say that the spot where Emperor Ojin first landed on Shodoshima is called “Ikisue” because that’s where he took a deep breath on a rest -- “iki wo suete” in Japanese. From there, he went along the southern side of the island and climbed Mt. Kankakei.
At that time, back when it was still called Kamikake, Emperor Ojin climbed the steep mountain and prayed for peace and prosperity in the country while gazing at the night sky. We’ve now connected the past to the present -- Kamikake and Kankakei.
Emperor Ojin, also known as Hachiman-sama, is now a deity enshrined at over 20,000 shrines all over Japan, with an especially large amount on the south side of Shodoshima where our bus runs. The shrines keep us connected to the past.
Kankakei Ropeway runs through a valley between two mountains, one of which is the tallest in the Seto Inland Sea -- Mt. Hoshigajo. The name itself suggests a wonderful night sky view and anecdotes about the stars -- with “hoshi,” meaning stars, and “jo,” meaning castle. Naturally, a mountain with such a name has its own observatories.
Let’s talk about stars for a moment. The North Star is the “king” of the stars because it shines the brightest and never changes its location. The Big Dipper is the closest constellation of stars so they’re also bright in the sky. These major stars were likened to gods in ancient times and were worshiped throughout history.
Such places of worship include a shrine on the west side of Mt. Hoshigajo and a pagoda on the east side. Back in the day, mountain priests who practiced mountain asceticism called “Shugendo” climbed Kankakei to be close to the sky and prayed to the North Star and the Big Dipper.
As we mentioned earlier, Emperor Ojin was enshrined as Hachiman all over Japan, and Shodoshima has seven shrines dedicated to him. When you map out the shrine’s locations you can see the same shape as the Big Dipper.
Certain temples and shrines in the area still offer prayers to the northern sky, the North Star, and the Big Dipper as they celebrate “Hoshi Matsuri,” or the Star Festival. The Kankakei area in particular has a deep connection with the stars as a place of worship since ancient times.
Now, from this place steeped in history and closest to the northern sky, turn your gaze upwards and make a wish to the North Star and the Big Dipper. It’s here, at this festival of stars, where your wishes will come true.
What kind of night sky awaits us at the summit? Please relax until we arrive at Kankakei.