Crushing, grinding, and pressing. Stones were the silent craftsmen that supported the flavors produced on the island.
Shōdoshima Island first became known for soy sauce production thanks to stone. Roughly 400 years ago, troops arrived on the island to excavate stone for use in the construction of Osaka Castle. As a gift, they brought soy sauce from Kishū Yuasa. It is said that the islanders were captivated by the dark liquid and asked to travel to Yuasa so that they could learn to make it. The sea provided salt, and the warm climate encouraged fermentation. Shōdoshima Island also had access to ports that allowed them to transport raw materials, so it had the perfect foundation to become a hub of soy sauce production.
After 400 years, the area became known as the Soy Sauce Capital. At the height of the Meiji Period (1868-1912), there were 400 breweries on the island, and the streets were filled with the smell of wooden tubs and steamed soybeans. The entire town was enveloped in the presence of soy sauce. These breweries were another industry that benefited from the support of local stone. Stone mills ground wheat, and stone weights were used to press the malted rice. The floors and foundations were also supported by stone. Even reclaimed land couldn’t be built upon without the use of stone.
Hishio-no-sato is still home to breweries built in the Meiji Period (1868-1912) that are still operational. The black stains on the roofs and walls are proof that the mold culture that ferments the soy sauce inhabits the breweries. It is said that the darker the stains, the more prosperous the brewery.
These breweries are a tapestry woven together by local stone, bacteria, and people. The aroma of soy sauce aged through these combined efforts continues to waft through the town. Though stone may be silent, it has continued to support the flavors and lives of the island for many years.