Before you lies the village of Kashiragashima. Another island rises beyond it, as if hiding this hamlet from the rest of the world. Upon this lone island, practically invisible to all, believers dared to hope. They were the Hidden Christians. What stories lie hidden in this serene landscape? Let us take a little trip back in time.
Christianity arrived in Japan in 1549. The story begins with missionary Francis Xavier’s arrival at Kagoshima. His teachings spread quickly at the height of the Sengoku Period. Christianity has existed in Gotō since early in its proliferation. It was sparked by a father and his wish for his child. At a time where the island suffered from disease, the feudal lord of the era invited missionaries versed in Western medicine. Meanwhile, along with their medicine, they took the opportunity to preach, spreading Christianity to the lord, his family and vassals, and eventually to the island population at large. But this time at the island would not last.
Shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi expelled, then outlawed, the missionaries. The Shogunate was wary of the encroaching Western influence; they believed Christianity to be dangerous. Churches were destroyed, and believers were forced to convert and trample on images of Jesus and Mary, a practice later known as “fumi-e.” Hesitation was met with inquisition, torture, and execution. The punishment spread beyond the accused; their families and other villagers would be in danger as well.
Nevertheless, some refused to cease their prayers. On the surface, they attended Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. When forced to do fumi-e, they obliged. However, in their homes, they exchanged Buddhist carvings for Mother Mary, praying in hushed tones all the while. There were no more missionaries. They were no longer free to read the bible. Despite that, they passed down their orations to their children, and over the long years those secret believers became known as the “Hidden Christians.”
Then, in 1791, something happened that would greatly influence Gotō’s history. Gotō Province, suffering from a population decrease, demanded that Omura Province relocate farmers to their domain. Gotō sought settlers to till their empty lands. Meanwhile, the Hidden Christians lived in Omura under severe conditions. They chose Gotō for more than just the faith; Omura’s seaside villages were poor, their villagers living meager lives. It’s said that such poverty resulted in infanticide of all but firstborn sons. It was an unbearable reality for Christians. Some even sailed away in order to protect their children.
Thus, most of the Christians came to Gotō as settlers. However, what awaited them wasn’t rich soils but rocky lands prone to steep slopes, an inlet that was impassable without a boat, and all the good land already taken by the locals. The newcomers were given nothing but untouched leftovers.
Kashiragashima was one such region. Long ago, smallpox patients came here to recover. Afterwards, it was deserted for a long time. Such a remote island would work well to hide the Christians.
In 1858, a Buddhist named Gidayu Maeda settled in Kashiragashima. But he wasn’t capable of clearing the land here alone, so he gathered the Hidden Christians in the region. They’d relocate while posing as Buddhist settlers alongside Gidayu. Here they were safe from the government. Although Gidayu was wise to their true faith, he turned a blind eye. Thus, finally, the Christians were able to worship in peace. For them, Kashiragashima was much akin to the “Kingdom of Heaven” described by their faith.
People live and worship in the villages within the panorama ahead of you. Beside you are the roads walked by locals long ago, remaining here today. If you walk this road, you’ll be able to eventually connect with them, reflecting on the layers of memories and stories from the many who came long ago.
-Chronology of this Trip-
1549 - Francis Xavier comes to Japan
1587 - Toyotomi Hideyoshi banishes the missionaries
1614 - Tokugawa Shogunate outlaws Christianity
1629 - The practice of “fumi-e” begins
1797 - Migration into Gotō from Nagasaki begins
1858 - Settlement begins in Kashiragashima
1865 - ”Shinto-hakken” at the Oura Cathedral
1867 - 14 people declare their faith at Kiri
1868 - Meiji Restoration; the collapse of Gotō begins
1870 - 6 Christians are killed in an incident at Takanosu
1873 - Ban on Christianity ends, granting freedom of religion
1910 - Yosuke Tetsugawa builds the Aosagaura Church