When the snowy season approaches, we feel it in our bones. When the first frost comes mid-September, the cold air becomes increasingly intense. By the end of September, you will surely feel winds so cold they pierce the skin. Sunless days roll in as the leaves of withered trees scatter and the darkness stretches for many days. As the murky weather continues, tall mountains dyed in white snow start to appear. This scene is called “Takemawari” in the local language. Much like oceans, the depths of the mountains also rumble like thunder--a sound known as “douna”. As soon as you hear the “douna,” you know that snow is on the horizon. Although no two years are exactly alike, the occurrence of Takemawari and Douna around the Autumn Equinox remain constant.
When you sense the snowy season approaching, you need to make sure that your house is prepared properly so that it's protected from the weight of the coming snow. It's common to tie something that can bend without breaking, like a cedar log or bamboo, to the nearby tree branches. Next, you must cover the well and prepare the latrine in the cabin so that you can easily draw water while it snows. Farming in the snow is out of the question, of course, so you must prepare enough food for your household. You must make sure that the food will not freeze, so you bury it in soil or wrap it in straw and place in a basket. There are countless other tasks needed to prepare for snow, but I can’t begin to cover all of them.
The first snowfall can be a beautiful sight for many. It's especially admired by those in the flourishing city of Edo, who only experience mild amounts of snow every other year or so. To commemorate the snow, they might take a Geisha out on a ship or invite guests to a tea ceremony. Brothels especially welcomed the snow, as they knew it would increase clientele. Anyone from the Snow Country would be envious, not to mention confused, to hear and see such joy over the prospect of snow. The way people from Edo and people from the Snow Country see snow is as different as “Yin” and “Yang”.
Speaking of “Yin and Yang”, did you know that there was a connection between “Yin and Yang” and cardinal directions? Normally, the North is considered the Yin (dark) and the South is the Yang (light). However, Echigo seems to oppose this logic, with calm oceans located in the northwest and gloomy mountains lining the southeast. I live in the southeast county of Uonuma. Uonuma is a land of rolling mountains: Mt. Makihata, Mt. Naeba, Mt. Hakkai, Mt. Ushiga, Mt. Kinjou, Mt. Komaga, Mt. Usagiga, Mt. Asakusa…the list goes on. No one outside this area even knows about all these incredible mountains here. Surrounded by all these mountains, can you start to imagine the depth of the snow? As the sun sets in the winter, the northern country is blanketed by extreme cold. The cold extends all the way into the home-- a major difference between living in the North and South.
So what does a typical year look like in terms of snow? Depending on the climate of the year, Japan's first snow falls at the end of September or the beginning of October. The snow is soft and airy, making it easy to accumulate. The wind keeps the snowflakes fine, like a powder. That's why snow can accumulate up to 2 or 3 meters in a single day or night--this happens every year without fail. So I can’t relate to people from warm regions like Edo--we live in completely different worlds. I don’t know the pleasure of singing songs and having banquets when the first snow falls. I only know the dark loneliness of being trapped in the snow year after year. My pain is only known to those born in a cold country like this, the same way people born in warm regions all share the same joy.