Okinawa is known throughout Japan for its diversity of textiles and fabrics. Having been influenced by the surrounding Asian countries and having access to a variety of plants due to its subtropical climate, Okinawa had a wealth of fabrics and dyes at its disposal. In addition, there was also a system in place called the “Kōnō-fu,” where taxes were paid using different kinds of fabrics, which played a role in this tradition as well.
This model was created by the people of Yaeyama and it depicts the production of cloth for this tax custom. The first stage of this process was the order from the Okinawan Regency at Shurijo Castle; this order would include the design which detailed what type of fabric they wanted, including the length and width, the pattern, and the color. Once these orders were received in Yaeyama and Miyako, they would use local plants to create the fabric, dye the threads to be woven into it, and then continue on to dye the actual fabric itself. The completed fabric would be thoroughly inspected by the craftsmen of the islands before being sent across the sea to Shurijo Castle. There were times when the final product would reach Shurijo and would be rejected and sent back. On one hand, the “Kōnō-fu” custom was a large burden for the islands to bear, but alternatively, it can be attributed to the creation of the fine dyeing and weaving culture that exists now.
Historically speaking, there is another custom where upon reaching the age of 15, you are considered a part of society and have to pay taxes. Within this custom, each age group is separated into four groups which determines how much of this tax burden you will bear. The four groups are called Jyō (Upper) , Chū (Middle), Ge (Lower) , and Gege (Lowest). The Upper group consists of those from ages 21-40, considered the prime age for working and the middle group is 41-45. So which groups belong to the lower and lowest groups?
The lower group includes those aged 46 and up and the lowest group includes the youthful ages of 15-20. The youth were still considered inexperienced and the older generation couldn’t be depended on when it came to work. Today in Okinawa, the elders are respected and revered, but from this bit of history we can gather that this has not always been the case.