You have now arrived at the gravesite of Michizane. Standing there, how do you feel?
A unique aspect to this shrine is that there’s no particular place for worship-- this is done intentionally, to make you feel closer to Michizane. Anyways, let's pay our homage by going through the ritual-- bow twice, follow with two claps and end with one more bow.
Please continue reading after you finish.
There was a disciple of Michizane named Ayaka Ajishu, who followed Michizane to Dazaifu and supported him until the end. He was the one who led the ox-pulled cart carrying Michizane’s ashes and dug his grave where the ox crouched.
"I guess he wanted to learn from Michizane until the very end."
Mr. Yasunori Ajishu, a priest of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, was telling us. Yes, you heard that correctly-- he’s the 42nd generation descendant of the disciple Ajishu.
But wait-- there’s more. The Nishita-katsuji family, who inherited the position of chief monk of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, are the direct descendant of Michizane Sugawara-- and they have been the ones maintaining Michizane's grave for more than 1,100 years.
At Dazaifu Tenmangu you can wonder, "What would Michizane think of this place if he were around today?"
What would he see if he were here? Well for one thing, he would see the monthly festivals held on the 25th of every month. The number 25 holds particular significance for Michizane, as it was both the day of the month when he entered this world and departed it. The keepers of this shrine have set up these monthly festivals so visitors can gradually feel the change of time and the seasons, hoping this will keep the spirit of Michizane happy.
To keep with the theme of “25”, there are also big festivals held every 25 years. The next one will be in 2028. As a sacred place where the spirit of Michizane resides eternally, the shrine is also periodically renovated, starting with the roof of the main sanctuary. The visitors are rejuvenated with the regeneration of the shrine.
After visiting the shrine, look up at the camphor trees in the temple grounds, numbering more than 100 and said to be 1500 years old. The groundskeepers’ job is to maintain the same appearance for hundreds or thousands of years, so you have the pleasure of witnessing the same view that was there a thousand years ago, and will be the same a thousand years from now. A shrine is a "spiritual home" that allows you to return to the origin every time you visit.
Also please be sure to enjoy the contemporary art around the grounds, that pay homage to the “deity of culture” Michizane using Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine as the theme.
