Suzakumon is the starting point of Suzaku Avenue. So, what lies at the end of the road? Exactly, the Dazaifu Government Office Ruins. Of course, back then it wasn’t “ruins,”, but was the government office used as an imperial court.
Now let’s go back in time, to 200 years before Michizane came to Dazaifu.
Hakata's port was the closest to China and was used as a diplomatic hub for many years, until the "Battle of Baekgang" in 663 forced them to relocate. At that time, Japan was trading with Baekje on the Korean Peninsula, but Baekje was attacked by Tang and Silla. Japan sent reinforcements, but was defeated and forced to withdraw.
Fear among the people of Hakata quickly rose. “They will attack Japan next.” In response, the government promptly set up a new defense system. But the facts remained-- Hakata was too exposed-- they wouldn’t stand a fighting chance if they stayed. So they relocated their bases inland, to a place surrounded by three mountains. At the only possible route of intrusion, they built a barrier called “Mizuki”. In addition, they built “Ono Castle” and “Kii Castle”, surrounding themselves with walls, and made thorough preparations for battle.
After all that preparation, Japan wasn’t attacked. Rather, Dazaifu developed as a diplomatic base by building friendly relations with Tang and Silla. Although Dazaifu was a place for urban planning, the Mikasa River that flows in front of you is a natural moat that just looks as if it were man-made. A defense base turned diplomatic compound-- the two are always hand-in-hand.
You step into a completely different atmosphere as you cross the Mikasa River. It divides the city into the town area on the outside, and the government office on the inside. Standing outside of Michizane’s residence, I’m sure back then you could see people walking along Suzaku Avenue, some passing through the gates at Suzakumon as they head to their job at the government office.
You probably assumed that Dazaifu was some faraway town-- after all, that’s where the emperor sent Michizane for demotion. But on the contrary, it was actually a sought-after location; one of the most advanced cities in Japan, where people would come to fulfill their dreams and where politicians would come to achieve successful careers.
