“Azana” means “lookout point.” Agari-no-azana is the lookout at the highest and easternmost point of Shuri-jo Castle.

From here, you can observe everything from Seiden to O’uchibara in one fell swoop. In between, you’ll see Koufuku-mon, Roukoku-mon, Zuisen-mon, Kankai-mon, Shurei-mon, as well as the view beyond the grounds of Shuri-jo Castle. You can even see the Naha port and Naha city itself.

If you look hard enough, you may be able to see Kudaka Island towards the east. Kudaka Island is said to be the first island created by the creation goddess of the Ryukyu Kingdom, Amamikiyo, when she descended from the heavens. The view you see now from Agari-no-azana is nothing short of a miracle, as it is the same exact view of the Ryukyu Kingdom from over 450 years ago.

Today, over 100 years after the demise of the Ryukyu Kingdom, Naha has turned into a metropolis. Filled with tall buildings in the city, airplanes in the sky and cruise ships in the port-- it must look different than in the past. But if you just close your eyes, you can get a sense for the spirit of the island. The wind flowing past you is the same wind of the past. While some things may have changed as Okinawa opened up to the surrounding world, its spirit remains intact.

While other Japanese cities like Heian-kyō followed the Chinese urban planning methods of a “south to north” design, Shuri-jo Castle is different. It’s designed “east to west,” which is believed to be reminiscent of the Ryukyuan sun-centered religion.

The east direction is of great importance as the sun rises from the east, but is also the direction of Kudaka Island, and is even said to be the direction of “Nirai Kanai”, the heavens from where the gods descended to Ryukyu. The Ryukyuan people pay homage to Shuri-jo Castle, which sits positioned between the west and the east, Seiden Hall, which stands against the backdrop of the sun, and the kingdom which grew in the shadow of the sun. The town of Naha spreads out below, overlooking the boats that travel from Ryukyu to Japan, China, and all over Asia.

What is the meaning behind this scene? Even though Shuri-jo Castle was destroyed by fire three times during the Ryukyu Kingdom, it will always be rebuilt-- with Seiden facing the west as its back faces the east. What kinds of thoughts and emotions are buried here?
It’s really grounding, isn’t it? To know that the journey you just experienced at Shuri-jo Castle is the same as those from the Ryukyu Kingdom era? The inclined steps, the low ceilings, the dark rooms of the Seiden. And now, the cool breeze of wind coming from Agari-no-azana. These are the kinds of experiences that stirs your imagination. What you just experienced is something that cannot be found anywhere else.

Have we peaked your interest? Do you want to learn more about Naha during the Ryukyu Kingdom? We’ve got you covered in a separate guide, titled “The Chronicles of Ancient Naha.”