A Map of Memory

Do you see the display made of palm leaf sticks sticking out of perforated shells?

This is a stick chart called rebbelib, a relic from the Marshall Islands of Micronesia that maps out the ocean swell patterns based on the experience of veteran navigators. To read the chart, you look at the positions of the sticks and shells and how they intersect. The sticks represent the ocean currents and are either straight or curved depending on the type of wave in that area, and a shell represents an island. Typically islands are just beyond a reflected wave, or curved stick on the chart since the water bounces back after hitting land.

The path to becoming a full-fledged navigator starts with learning the basics of tools such as these stick charts and constellation compasses. Next, you’ll practice canoeing with a professional navigator until you can travel to and from islands, not by reading a map but by reading the natural signs around you. You can read everything from the stars and sun, waves and swells, the presence and color of clouds, to the direction and strength of wind, birds in the sky, fish and turtles in the sea, etc. The last step to becoming a recognized navigator is passing the sacred initiation “Pwo Ritual'', but it’s said that even those who pass the initiation continue their learning for decades. A navigator is essential to the wellbeing of the island and all its inhabitants and is a very important job.

All the charts and compasses used for training are not actually brought out to sea-- all you bring on the voyage is your own knowledge. This knowledge is a treasure to both the navigators and all the islanders.

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