The topic of beer first appeared in Japanese literature in 1724 in “Dutch Dialogue,” a collection of questions and answers with Dutch people. But it seems that the Japanese people at that time had a strong distaste for beer, as it was quoted as “extremely bad and there is nothing worse.”
However, that changed at the end of the Edo period, with the influence of foreigners in the settlements in Yokohama and Kobe. A few breweries were established in that area, starting with “Japan Brewery,” Japan’s first brewery. Another reputable brewery from the same region is "Spring Valley Brewery."
Japanese people were also influenced by this surge of domestic beer brewing and started operating their own breweries, amounting to over 100 domestic beer brands by 1900. Large tanks made of enamel and stainless steel were increasingly used for beer brewing, but some places used wooden tubs traditionally used for brewing soy sauce and sake to brew their beer instead.
"Wadachi," the flagship of Kagoya Brewery, is one such beer made in a tub of Yoshino cedar. It’s said that the microorganisms that live in the wood take time to ferment, giving the beer a mellow taste. Since wooden tubs only have small tanks and are difficult to maintain, it’s uncommon for breweries to use them. But even faced with these difficulties, Kagoya Brewery prefers the Japanese taste that can only be produced with the wooden tub that can’t be replicated by any other method.
Kagoya has a rich history, originally founded in 1902 as a bamboo basket shop, and later as a liquor store in the Showa era. From 2017, they went into the restaurant business as a fermentation cuisine restaurant with a modern Japanese feel,Kagoya Tasuku, and also a brewery.
The brewery's equipment boasts five brand new stainless steel tanks and one wooden tub made of Yoshino cedar. The owner said, "We opened our brewery in hopes of making beer that Japanese people can be proud of. Craft beer is interesting because its unique characteristics are as varied as the number of breweries and brewers.”
Wadachi beer, with its elegant aroma of Yoshino cedar, pairs well with Japanese food. For example, you can enjoy a glass of Wadachi beer with lean tuna or golden eye snapper, dishes which typically don't match with ordinary beer. At Kagoya Tasuku, you can enjoy a perfect pairing of food and drink that you can’t find anywhere else.
"The quality of the wooden tub changes every 5 or 10 years, so I'm looking forward to seeing how the taste changes over time," said the owner. The wooden tub allows for a unique type of enjoyment of beer and the aging process itself.
