“Kikusui-no-gotoshi.” These words were scribed by Heihachiro Togo when he visited Kikusuiro 100 years ago.

A highly-ranked naval hero, Togo never paid to stay at Kikusuiro; on the contrary, he was often invited to stay. From the emotion that flows out from the characters before us, one could imagine this was a gift of gratitude from Togo to Kikusuiro.

And that gift of words was “Kikusui-no-gotoshi,” which roughly translates to “Like the Chrysanthemum Waters.” What could this phrase mean? 100 years ago, the staff must have wanted to ask, but Heihachiro Togo was, naturally, not so easy to approach. As a result, even to the current staff, this mystery persists to this day.

What exactly is “Kikusui”? Historically, there is an ancient Chinese legend called the “Kikusui Densetsu,” which translates to the “Legend of the Chrysanthemum Waters.” In the tale, chrysanthemums grew upon the headwaters of a certain river, and villagers who drank the river water were blessed with longevity. The legend was passed down through the Nara and Heian Period nobility, and it was as beloved as the famous Japanese folktale of Momotaro. When Heihachiro Togo wrote “Kikusui-no-gotoshi,” he may have been metaphorically referring to his time spent in Kikusuiro being as rich as the fountains of youth. Of course, that is all speculation.

Togo’s calligraphy hangs over the front entrance, greeting Kikusuiro’s customers, never changing, like the chrysanthemum waters of eternal life. Staff members say they feel a certain tension when they look up at the banner; in a sense, they have taken up a baton that’s been passed down for over 100 years and will be inherited across future generations.

If Heihachiro Togo could have predicted his gift would carry such meaning, one would have to acknowledge how peerless he was. But looking at the piece again, how do you feel? A solemn, military air pervades the piece, balanced by round and gentle penmanship. This could be seen as a reflection of the artist’s own personality, but what do you think? We invite you to ponder the meaning of Heihachiro Togo’s present to Kikusuiro, as well as the artist himself.

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