When the ox-pulled cart brought the ashes of Michizane to the spot now known as Dazaifu Tenmangu, where was it coming from? Actually, it was coming from here-- the residence of Michizane.
Michizane lived a miserable life in Dazaifu-- he lived in a shack with a leaking room, struggled to find food and couldn’t sleep. He suffered from beriberi, dermatosis, and worst of all, a sense of nostalgia.
But one day, there was salvation. When he was running away from his pursuers, an old woman living nearby saw him and at that moment decided to give him shelter in a large stone pot. From then on, the old woman started to take care of Michizane, even going so far as to make him mochi garnished with plum, after hearing how much he liked it. They say this is the origin of “umegaemochi”.
This is the shrine for that old woman, Moro Namazen.
During the autumn festival of Jinkoshiki, people carry the portable shrine carrying the spirit of Michizane from the main sanctuary, through Donkan Path, to Enoki Shrine. The bearers place the portable shrine here in front of Moro Namazen and begin the ritual. Jinkoshiki is meant to pay tribute to the old woman who helped Michizane in his time of need.
Moro Namazen is now called “Jyomyon”.
They say Michizane lived a miserable life in Dazaifu, but what was it really like?
In fact, tragedy followed Michizane from the moment he left Kyoto; from a boat with a broken stern to a horse with broken hooves, after a long journey he arrived at Dazaifu. “When I left the political stage of Kyoto, I felt like I was being judged by everyone around me. It made me feel sick to my stomach and I didn’t know what to do with myself.”
Before long, Michzane started to repair the miserable excuse for a shack he was staying at, until he thought to himself, “as a sinner, my punishment should fit my crime…”
Michizane muttered, “The city towers only see the color of the tiles. Kanon-ji only hears the sound of the ringing bells.”
Was he alone? He brought his two children and a former student of his, whom he assigned as a government official in Dazaifu.
Was he poor? It wasn’t much, but he did make a living. “It’s not the first time the world has seen royalty turn into beggars. We may not have what we used to, but what’s important is that we have food, we have a roof over our heads-- and most importantly, we have each other.” These words remain in the records of Michizane’s poetry.
These thoughts of his were short-lived. In the end Michizane was never granted his wish to return to Kyoto, and he spent his final days in Dazaifu.
