An alley where humans co-exist with the gods.

When you leave the bustling streets and their cafes and gift stalls behind, you can glimpse a snapshot of the gods’ presence in this region in places such as Senshin-Tsurui.

There are no graves on this island, for example. Due to Shinto precinct regulations, graves cannot be erected here. Because of that, most of the islanders’ graves are raised in Miyajima-guchi, on the opposite shore.

Let’s look a bit more closely at the well. As you’ve surely noticed, it features an altar. It enshrines the monk Senshin, who originally dug the well. Locals draw water from it to this day for drinking or making tea.

The abundance of wooden spoons as souvenirs is also owed to the gods. Agriculture has not flourished here because of a desire to keep the land pristine. In this virgin island without stable industry, Senshin conceived of carving wooden spoons in the shape of the lute of Sarasvati, goddess of the arts. It became an industry perfectly suited to Miyajima, flush as it was with highly skilled carpenters and woodworkers. They remain famous as talismans, often carried by Hiroshima high school baseball teams during the Koshien tournaments.

According to the elderly women of the island, at the end of each year the well’s ceremonial rope is exchanged for a “saiwaigami,” a paper charm unique to Miyajima. Until recently the locals held a custom where every morning they would draw water from the shore by the torii gate and make salt to purify the gate of the well.

The shrines also carry out events throughout the year. Events such as the Momote Festival which uses archery to expel maliciousness, or the Oshima-Meguri which is a tour of the seven inlets of Miyajima to pay tribute to crows believed to be gods. There’s also the Tamatori Festival where young people carry a large “jewel” out from the sea, the Chinka Festival on the night of New Year’s Eve, and the Kangen Festival, where locals perform wind and string music to soothe the gods. There are many other festivals where locals offer flowers, tea, or dance for the gods. It would be no exaggeration to say that Itsukushima Shrine is the focus of every year at Miyajima Island. Though they cost money to attend, the locals explained to us that these rituals are valued by all.

As you can see, Miyajima remains to this day the island of the gods.