In the borderland town of Kumagawa, a bamboo screen stood in front of two officials as they monitored the passersby from the guardhouse. At length, they called out to a group of pedestrians.

Official: Where are you heading?

Traveler: We travel west, sir.

Official: Where in the west?

Traveler: To the city of Tsu, sir.

Official: And where do you hail from?

Traveler: From Osaka, sir.

Official: When did you depart?

Traveler: On the 20th of June, sir.

Official: And how many are you traveling with?

Traveler: I am with four people, sir.

Official: And the woman?

Traveler: My wife, sir.

Official: And your papers?

Traveler: Yes, right here, sir.

Official: Show them to me.

The officials would then proceed to check the paperwork. If there were no issues, the travelers would be allowed to pass through. However, it was quite difficult for women to travel in those days. During this time period, the Edo Shogunate would force officials and their wives to move to Edo in order to quell any signs of rebellion. If their wives were to escape from the city, their effectiveness as hostages would be lost. This fear is what led to the strictness regarding women traveling outside of Edo, which was also enforced in the guardhouse of Kumagawa.

However, those who were on a pilgrimage were treated differently. If you were able to recite the Buddhist pilgrim’s song, you would be given permission to pass through. There was one instance where a nun tried to sneak past the barrier without getting checked, and she was publicly executed. Just who was this woman and what was her purpose? One’s imagination runs wild just thinking about it.

Once you pass this post, you enter Shiga Prefecture. To this day, the city of Kumagawa acts as a border between prefectures.